The Right Way To Replace A Seat Occupancy Sensor

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This mission has been a very long time coming for me. Nearly a yr ago I left my windows down during a fairly impressive thunderstorm (by accident pressed the unlock button on my key in my pocket whereas I used to be walking away from the automobile and each home windows and the sunroof opened), and resulting from some reasonably drastic measures on my half to dry out the automotive the only lasting injury was that I now had a seatbelt and airbag warning mild on my dashboard. I was pretty quickly ready to determine that these lights had been being brought on by a faulty passenger occupancy sensor. Sadly, BMW doesn't promote just the sensor, but relatively all the backside seat cushion for a cool $1200. Nicely I did not want to do that. So I managed to make it through many a month with these annoying warning lights till in the future I happened upon a list on a salvage automotive parts site that was promoting a standalone seat sensor! I snatched up the half and then spent a whole day switching them out. In researching the best way to get into the seats I used to be unable to search out much of something useful on this forum so I figured I ought to write up this DIY to help others out. 1. Remove the seat (duh). You may use the T50 bit to take away all four screws holding the seat down. As soon as unfastened, go to the trunk and disconnect the battery. Back within the cabin, push the chair again so you may see underneath and disconnect the yellow wiring harness. There's a black tab on the side that you could fit a small screwdriver in. Pull that tab out as far as it should go, https://storage.googleapis.com/abrahambrantley/Wall-Mount-Occupancy-Sensor.html then pull out the wiring harness. There is a separate wire connector on prime too: squeeze the sides to launch it and disconnect that too. Now pull the seat out of the automotive. This is simpler for those who also take the headrest off. 2. Now you're going to must take away the plastic cowl on the righthand aspect of the seat that has the seat controls on it. This piece is held on with 5 plastic tabs: Three are seen on the underside of the piece and a couple of are hidden inside close to the top. I was in a position to get all but the righthand inside tab using simply my arms. To get that last tab I needed to bend a hook form into a chunk of thick wire and fish that through to the tab and pull the tab whereas pulling up on the entire piece. That was tough. Once off, you may see learn how to controls are wired up, just unplug them so you'll be able to remove the trim entirely. 3. As soon as the outer plastic trim is off, you will be confronted with a second plastic piece. To remove this there's just one bolt (T30) and then you definitely simply have to wiggle it around until it pops off. There are some wires hooked up to this piece with a plastic rivet which does not seem like it is meant to come off so I left this piece still partially attached to the seat. 4. Subsequent, there's another plastic trim piece on the other facet of the seat on the back corner. Use the T20 bit to take away the screw, and pull the piece off. 5. There's now just one last piece of trim left, and it's a pain. It is the decrease plastic piece on the front of the chair. You will see that there are three attachment points. The outer two are simple: simply depress the outward dealing with tab with a small screwdriver and pull outward on the piece. They will pop out. The middle attachment level is tougher because the tab you'd want to press in is actually facing inward in the direction of the seat so you can't get to it. You may, nonetheless, use a small screwdriver and put the top contained in the attachment level, angling it in order that it catches on the tab on the inside, and pull the piece downward. It will come off eventually. 4. Now it is time to begin removing the leather! The point of eradicating all this plastic trim was to be ready to easily and totally remove the entire seat cushion. Be aware how all around the seat the leather is stitched to this plastic lip. Now that we have eliminated all the trim, you may pull this plastic lip off of its hold on the seat body. There's one long piece for all the entrance, one medium piece in the back, and two short items, one on either again aspect of the chair. Additionally be sure you undo the little bits on the again corners the place the leather is held by a plastic button and is stretched over a steel nub. Now we will pull the again flap by way of the gap in between the upper and lower halves of the chair and then, from the back forward, pull the cushion up. There's only one last level of attachment: simply before the leg extension there is a plastic rib that's connected to the seat body. This rib is just held in by some metallic tabs, you can start on one end and pull up and it's going to come out. 5. Now for the real fun part: we need to take away the leather from the foam cushion so that we will get at the occupancy sensor. On the underside of the cushion, starting from the back, you will see many steel hogties. I used a pair of pliers to take away them. Simply pinch the ring and switch it until the ends are facing you, then pull them apart and take away the ring. There are four on the outside of the cushion to take away. Then on the inside you will must remove a bunch extra. I did eleven rings in complete, I believe. When you get get deep enough between the foam and the leather, you possibly can fully take away the outdated sensor. It is glued in on the front and on each side bolsters. 6. Put in your new sensor! I glued mine back in with some Gorilla Glue Gel. Watch out as a result of not a lot seems to stick to that foam. I in all probability went by 4-5 totally different glues before I found the Gorilla Glue. 7. It is all downhill from here. Now it is advisable reattach the leather-based to the foam. To do that, I used zip ties. Just put them in the exact spots the place you eliminated the steel rings. For a number of the more difficult components to get a zip tie in place, I was able to push my steel wire by means of the outlet and use it as a guide for the zip tie. 8. Reattach that sucker again to the seat body. Nothing too tough here, simply take it sluggish and go in the reverse from before. It'll all match. Do not forget to plug in your new seat sensor to the chair. 9. Reinstall the chair. General this undertaking took me about 6-8 hours. Removing the plastic trim is difficult, eradicating the hog rings is a ache, and getting the leather-based reattached to the foam takes time. That said, it's all utterly doable with minimal instruments. I've written this up as greatest I can, but I'm positive I left out just a few steps.